SHOP LIQUORICE

SLiq Update: SEE YOU SOON x

2011-11-30T06:32:00.000-05:00

Dear Friends and Fans of Shop Liquorice,

What started as a small way to celebrate Africa's blooming fashion scene has taken on a life of its own and opened new opportunities to us. As such, it's no longer business as usual at Shop Liquorice and we are planning a re-launch in the coming weeks.

Please bear with us as posting may be infrequent during the transition. We aim to be back in full force as soon as possible, and we're positive what we have planned for you all will inspire a renewed love for Africa.

Thank you for your continued support - your countless words of encouragement have been invaluable and kept us juggling Shop Liquorice with demanding work schedules and graduate degrees (what we were thinking?!). We'll resume tweeting shortly (twitter.com/xoliquoricexo) and we're certainly open to hearing from you all via e-mail (shopliquorice (at) gmail (dot) com).

We'll miss you all - but not for too long. See you soon :-)

- SLiq

MTNLFDW Designer Of The Year Finalists: Ozora by Xee

2011-11-02T17:18:00.000-04:00

Full review to come. Enjoy the photos. Click to enlarge. Ozora by Xee was one of 12 finalists for the Young Designer of the Year award. Each designer presented an average of 6 pieces.

- SLiq

Photos: Tunde Adedeji (Unleash Media) for Shop Liquorice

MTNLFDW Designer Of The Year Finalists: Marayah O

2011-11-02T16:35:00.000-04:00

Full review to come. Enjoy the photos. Click to enlarge. Marayah O was one of 12 finalists for the Young Designer of the Year award. Each designer presented an average of 6 pieces.

- SLiq

Photo: Tunde Adedeji (Unleash Media for Shop Liquorice)

MTNLFDW Designer Of The Year Finalists: Ibitein Thompson

2011-11-02T15:40:00.001-04:00

Full review to come. Enjoy the photos. Click to enlarge. Ibitein Thompson was one of 12 finalists for the Young Designer of the Year award. Each designer presented an average of 6 pieces.

- SLiq

Photos: Tunde Adedeji (Unleash Media) for Shop Liquorice

Lagos Fashion and Design Week: Kiki Kamanu

2011-10-31T06:47:00.000-04:00

Full review to come shortly. Enjoy the photos. Click to enlarge.

- SLiq

Photos: Tunde Adedeji (Unleash Media) for Shop Liquorice

MTNLFDW Designer Of The Year Finalists: Akpos Okudu

2011-10-30T11:38:00.000-04:00

Full review to come. Enjoy the photos. Click to enlarge. Akpos Okudu was one of 12 finalists for the Young Designer of the Year award. Each designer presented an average of 6 pieces.

- SLiq

Photos: Tunde Adedeji (Unleash Media) for Shop Liquorice

MTNLFDW Designer Of The Year Finalists: Viv La Resistance

2011-10-30T11:10:00.000-04:00

Full review to come. Enjoy the photos. Click to enlarge. Viv La Resistance was one of 12 finalists for the Young Designer of the Year award. Each designer presented an average of 6 pieces.

- SLiq

Photos: Tunde Adedeji (Unleash Media) for Shop Liquorice

Lagos Fashion and Design Week: Odio Mimonet

2011-10-30T10:37:00.000-04:00

Full review to come shortly. Enjoy the photos. Click to expand.

- SLiq

Photos: Tunde Adedeji (Unleash Media) for Shop Liquorice

MTNLFDW Designer Of The Year Finalists: iamISIGO

2011-10-30T03:56:00.000-04:00

Full review to come. Enjoy the photos. Click to enlarge. iamISIGO was one of 12 finalists for the Designer of the Year award. Each designer presented an average of 6 pieces.

- SLiq

Photos: Tunde Adedeji (Unleash Media) for Shop Liquorice

Lagos Fashion and Design Week: Obsidian

2011-10-30T02:43:00.000-04:00

Full review to come shortly. Enjoy the photos. Click to enlarge.

- SLiq

Photos: Tunde Adedeji (Unleash Media) for Shop Liquorice

Lagos Fashion and Design Week: Bridget Awosika

2011-10-30T01:49:00.000-04:00

Full review to come shortly. Enjoy the photos. Click to enlarge.

- SLiq

Photos: Tunde Adedeji (Unleash Media) for Shop Liquorice

Lagos Fashion and Design Week: Amede

2011-10-29T07:00:00.000-04:00

Full review to come shortly. Enjoy the photos. Click to enlarge.

- SLiq

Photos: Tunde Adedeji (Unleash Media) for Shop Liquorice

Lagos Fashion and Design Week: Grey

2011-10-29T04:24:00.000-04:00

Full review to come shortly. Enjoy the photos. Click to enlarge.

- SLiq

Tunde Adedeji (Unleash Media) for Shop Liquorice

Lagos Fashion and Design Week: Jewel by Lisa

2011-10-28T22:51:00.001-04:00

*Full review to come shortly. Enjoy the photos. Click to enlarge.

- SLiq

Photos: Tunde Adedeji (Unleash Media) for Shop Liquorice

Lagos Fashion and Design Week: Sunny Rose

2011-10-28T12:43:00.000-04:00

As far as breakthrough debuts go, Sunny Rose's foray into the world of fashion is one we'll be loving long time. Jetting off now to get ready for the last set of shows today and tomorrow. Enjoy some of the highlights from over 40 looks and be sure to let us know what catches your eye. Don't you just love our photographer? Be sure to click on photos to enlarge them and get a sense of all the hidden details.

- SLiq

Photos: Tunde Adedeji (Unleash Media) for Shop Liquorice

Lagos Fashion and Design Week: Lanre da Silva Ajayi

2011-10-28T06:32:00.000-04:00

Apart from the daily runway shows at Lagos Fashion and Design Week, a great number of not-so-side attractions are on full display, from dresses lining the red carpet, to exhibitionists displaying and selling everything from python and aso-oke clutches to Anita Quansah's incredible statement necklaces. Here are Grace Osime and Lanre da Silva Ajayi (LDA) by LDA's presentation on Thursday.

- SLiq

Photos: Tunde Adedeji (Unleash Media) for Shop Liquorice. Tunde is a great friend of ours at Shop Liquorice. If you require the services of an amazing professional photographer who goes above the call of duty, feel free to contact us - shopliquorice (at) gmail (dot) com.

MTN Lagos Fashion and Design Week: Maki Oh

2011-10-28T04:54:00.000-04:00

Shop Liquorice is live and direct at the ongoing Lagos Fashion and Design Week, bringing you crisp photos from every angle our brilliant photographer can manage. Today, we begin with the sensational and breathtaking Maki Oh -- one of the continent's wunderkids of sorts, who has an intutitive knack for merging contemporary and traditional, especially in this collection. Expect a full-blown Shop Liquorice review, but, in the meantime, enjoy the gorgeous details - from the raffia in-built in a pair of organza shorts, to a sensational velvet green dress.

- SLiq

Photos: Tunde Adedeji (Unleash Media) for Shop Liquorice

Africa Fashion Week 2011: Day 2 - Christie Brown >> Ghana [Talensi]

2011-10-24T09:34:00.000-04:00

When fashion understudies culture or influences it on some level, it leaves the realm of just clothes and enters the realm of cultural symbolism and meaning. It's why monikers like 'tribal', 'ethnic', and even 'African Fashion' can be problematic for being too general and lazy. Duro Olowu referenced Bamako women in 2008, Mimi Plange referenced scarification in 2010, Maki Oh re-imagines tie-and-dye, Ituen Basi deconstructs wax print, Jewel by Lisa embellishes it. While incorporating Africa shouldn't be mandatory, a hat tip to all those who do in honest and authentic ways, marking a cultural moment and setting it in stone. If we don't dig deep into our cultures and uncover them, who will?

Contemporary womenswear designer Christie Brown used the Talensi women of northern Ghana as a context - 'Although minimalistic in lifestyle, the Talensi tribe is rich with culture', the designer said in a press release pre-collection' - and it what was the young designer's most visually stunning body of work to date; that's saying something for a designer who has kept a culture of constant innovation and improvement. Familiar, simple silhouettes - a chic pencil skirt, a sleeveless trench, blouses - all received the Christie Brown treatment. Strips of wax print draped on yellow peplum blouse, fabric covered buttons adorned a khaki skirt, wax print peeked from chiffon. Christie Brown gets the balance and fusion of elements so well - so well, in fact, that the almost four-year-old label won Arise's Emerging Designer of the Year (Africa) award in 2009 just months after the label's creation, and was nominated in the same category at the recently concluded Africa Fashion Week.

From ultra chic red carpet with chain, slits and layered wrap skirts, to sheer, cropped tanks and blouses, the mix of khaki, yellow, cobalt and print just might seep into every aspect of your spring wardrobe - work separates come by way of a wax print blouse and a pencil skirt, play by way of a khaki tunic-dress, a contemporary red carpet look by way of a fitted ruffle skirt and a cropped tank, or a dress with patchwork detailing and cutout vents. If this isn't pure commercial - and sartorial - brilliance, we don't know what is. Christie Brown's reference point and her constant celebration of contemporary Africa reminds us that culture can transcend time and place and doesn't always need to be literal, and it can help us learn more about each other and ourselves. Surely, we weren't the only ones who googled Talensi. Brilliant, brilliant work, Christie Brown.

- SLiq

Photos courtesy of SDR Photos

Africa Fashion Week 2011: Day 2 - Gloria Wavamunno >> Uganda [Mensch/Unmensch]

2011-10-24T06:04:00.000-04:00

Gloria Wavamunno has been one of the most intriguing and organic transformations - and fluctuations - to watch. From early days filled with wax print cutout minis and a simplicity that made us somewhat dissatisfied, Gloria seems to have found a steady footing, if somewhat unsure of itself on occasion. Time, perhaps, and significant exposure in the last year, from runways in London (one of her strongest appearances yet) to Africa Fashion Week, New York, where we saw a mixed bag of spunk and simple - sometimes, far too simple. For Spring/Summer 2012, Gloria Wavamunno is finally back in top form, delivering her strongest pieces yet.

Dubbed Mensch/Unmensch (German for human and inhuman, or dignified and undignified), everything from the accessories - half-gloves for the seemingly half-conformist 'good', horns for the 'bad' - to the pieces themselves carried that duality. Sheer tapered harem pants, thigh high slits skirts with maximum movement and torso-baring jackets met a buttoned up jacket with metal embellishments, batik jackets also similarly embellished and combined with faux fur - all more covered up than the dazzling black latex jackets (our particular favourites). Yet, the good/bad distinction was hardly linear - the 'bad' pieces only required a little buttoning up to integrate them with the well-behaved. Is anything, then, strictly always Mensch/Unmensch? Or do we mostly stride the middle ground - reflected in the grey pieces and a sweet brown signature mini - not being wholly dignified or undignified? For designers of African origin, is there pressure to pander to print or is there room for freedom to explore? Whatever the answer is, Gloria bats for both sides confidently.

From staple spring black, to a dose of red, and a taste of Africa by way of the batiks; to a cropped leather jacket and a sheer, cropped grey one; to jacket and dresses gilded in fur and chain, Gloria clearly put a good deal of thought into combining easily disparate elements into one, ultimately leaving the tussle between Mensch and Unmensch an open-ended one. Whichever direction you feel drawn to for spring, this collection comes prepared to enable you - you shouldn't feel compelled to be one or the other. We like this Gloria very much and hope she gives this level of work more consistently.

- SLiq

Photos courtesy of SDR Photos

Africa Fashion Awards 2011: The Winners

2011-10-22T19:31:00.000-04:00

[One of several promotional images for Africa Fashion Week]

Africa Fashion Week has come and gone, culminating in an award show celebrating Africa's best and brightest. Huge congratulations to the nominees and this year's winners, ranging from the much-loved Jewel by Lisa, to the little known gifted Sudanese Maya Antoun:

Designer of the Year, Africa: Jewel by Lisa

Designer of the Year, International: Ozwald Boateng

Emerging Designer of the Year, Africa: Maki Oh

Emerging Designer of the Year, International: Mimi Plange

Accessories Designer of the Year: Maya Antoun

Model of the Year: Ajuma Nasanyana

Outstanding Contribution to:

a) Hair Direction - Johnni Sapong

b) Make-up Direction - Liz van der Merwe

c) Fashion Photography - Andrew Dosunmu

d) Fashion Styling - Jenny Andrew

Fashion Communicator of the Year - iFashion

Outstanding Contribution to the Fashion Industry - Bethann Hardison

Their success makes us exceedingly proud!

- SLiq

Africa Fashion Week 2011: Day 2 Edit - The Swim Team

2011-10-22T19:04:00.000-04:00

ADAMA PARIS - SENEGAL/PARIS

Bright wax print was the name of the game at Adama Paris - from statement poolside/beach wear with angular sleeves, to pretty separates finished off with bows. From the more daring, cutout one pieces were available - an incentive to hit the gym well in advance if ever there was one. We're not sure how practical these are for dipping into the pool, given that they're fashioned from cotton, but if all you're after is flopping on a beach chair with a giant hat and sunglasses, these pieces would make heads turn regardless.

DAX MARTIN - SOUTH AFRICA

Gorgeous, clever custom seashell nylon lycra prints stole the show at Dax Martin - from cool sea blues to deep browns mimicking cowrie sea shell spots. Dyed caftans finished off with silver and gold sequins reminiscent of water and sand continued the sea of tributes to mother nature. Our favourite? The vintage-style pin-up girl separates.

EKI ORLEANS - NIGERIA/UK

Eki Orleans offered a brilliant peacock fiesta of free, floor-length frocks, minis and bikinis; a glamorous resort-ready wardrobe of fluid silks and beachwear featuring prints from Eki Orleans' earlier collections. We adore the layered dresses, giving off a multi-tone sheer effect and the dramatic trains of two of the longer pieces. The brighter the print, the better for us.

- SLiq

Photos: SDR Photos

Africa Fashion Week: Day 2 Edit - Madam Wokie, Duaba Serwa, Kiki Clothing

2011-10-22T19:00:00.000-04:00

As with yesterday, more full-blown reviews of our top shows from Day 2 to come. Please stay tuned.

MADAM WOKIE - SIERRA LEONE

Bandage mummy-like pieces, an ultra chic wildcard suit with old-school appeal and distinctly Sierra Leonean embroidery were the highlights of this collection. At times muted in brown tones, at times highlighted with purple and yellow, the thigh-grazing minis were the most recurrent looks. While the collection was far too small and thematic for our liking, we enjoyed this ode to femininity and the jolt of electric blue, which we wish had been explored in more detail. The pieces that will probably linger the longest are the burnt gold bandage dress and skirt - the perfect fusion of naughty and nice.

DUABA SERWA - GHANA

Duaba Serwa's collection was a pleasant surprise. Being the young label's first full-blown collection and introduction to a global audience, one might have expected nervous jitters or a lack of direction, but not so for Duaba Serwa. Golden girl dresses reminiscent at times of Roland Mouret were an undoubtedly sexy (especially a structured, corseted number paired with an effortless jacket) celebration of the female form and were finished off with a metallic sheen. Form fitting minis in deep purple and grey had necklines adorned in seed and pearl beads - an early hint at a signature detail perhaps? Beading also showed up on a jacket and side panels on a custard yellow peplum dress, sprucing them up nicely. The show-stopper? A floor-length red dress with extensive, perfectly-positioned beading. We're certainly looking forward to this label's future offerings as they fine-tune their point-of-view in an industry where a unique selling point is key. Still, a commendable first attempt.

KIKI CLOTHING - GHANA

Print lovers after easy, ready-to-wear pieces may find some level of fulfillment in Kiki Clothing's collection. While offerings didn't dig deep enough for us we can't deny a commercial appeal in the poet sleeves, pussy-bow detail and the rompers, dresses, and shorts. Good for customers who don't do fuss and frills, especially with Kiki Clothing's fair asking prices. Highlights were a chiffon pussy bow blouse contrasted with print and wax-print sandals - a go-to accessory for warm summer days.

- SLiq

Africa Fashion Week 2011: Day - 1 Alexander Koutny [South Africa/NY]

2011-10-22T17:59:00.100-04:00

Much has been made of cross-border appeal in our increasingly global village - fashion beyond borders, if you like - and its insatiable appetite for newness. While it may yet be a distant and daunting dream for many out-of-Africa designers battling constraints from funding to infrastructure, Johannesburg-born and Central Saint Martins MA graduate Alexander Koutny is already fluent in international speak. His home-coming collection brought with it a dark turn - a detour of sorts from his recent flirtations with print, but it also hearkened back to earlier collections when black was his base.

Obvious heaviness aside - wool, tights, leather, heavy coats and layering, however gorgeous, don't exactly scream Spring however you cut it - but, incidentally, it's the strong finger on cut, technique and detail we are most curious about here. Seen from a sculpted origami jacket with strong angular shapes (the statement jacket to end all statement jackets, save for a Viktor and Rolf creation) to a layer of mesh peeking from a boxy, asymmetric layer, mesh skin tight leggings paired with a silk blouse and hair extensions playing the role of embroidery; it's an artful tug-of-war between dark and light from which neither ultimately prevails because they are so beautifully combined. Many pieces started as simple crew necks, from which they became an angular cocoon dress in one case and an asymmetric piece with padded sleeves in another.

For a designer who left South Africa to escape 'commercialism', his attention to detail is hardly surprising and bears the traces of an aesthetic fine-tuned and understood over time - this level of effortlessness doesn't just happen. Sadly, the fine art of approachable construction that distinguishes Koutny isn't obvious in these one-dimensional photos; this strikes us as the sort of collection you meet one-on-one and deconstruct, layer by layer. In the absence of that, however, Koutny has evidently returned to South Africa fully formed with a strong point of view and his own self-assured take on international chic. We await his future projects somewhat impatiently, while we hope for a forecast of more lightness and less wool next summer.

- SLiq

Photos courtesy of SDR Photos

Africa Fashion Week 2011: Day - 1 Marianne Fassler [Street Juju]

2011-10-22T16:25:00.000-04:00

Marianne Fassler is bound by an underlying commitment to showcasing and promoting Africa, and is something of a local legend in South Africa where she has consistently offered a divergent point of view for over two decades. In a budding industry where 'African Fashion' has undergone many makeovers and shorned strict definitions, Marianne Fassler, in her words, 'understands the strength of contemporary South Africa with its mixed cultures and mixed messages and her work exudes an exuberant Africanism that never descends into cliche'. This intimate understanding is reflected in the spirit of her Street Juju collection at Africa Fashion Week - a streak of irreverent, timeless spunk (reminiscent of Vivienne Westwood), with street charm and distinctly African sensibilities.

From markings echoing a long heritage of scarification, to ombre and bright polka dot jersey dresses, and wax print mixed with leopard, a varied pot of print was offered in Marianne's signature way - shredded, criss-crossed with tulle, deconstructed and re-combined. Usually soft and romantic tulle and lace brought additional edge in the form of ruffled, free layered skirts, taking a cue from patterned bodices - a carefree, unscripted celebration of independence. For all the fun dresses and separates - one look combined polka dots with a multi-coloured underlay and a gorgeous lace bodice - there was also room for some grown-up seriousness. A dark tie-dye dress (seen on the timeless Ajuma) suitable for red carpet sass, a black leather dress straight from the set of the Matrix, and a silk floor-length leopard print stunner easily come to mind.

Clearly, Marianne is a master of craft, and while not every single look struck a cord, the diversity of her offerings - from the practical jerseys to the fantastical tulles, all joyful and unrestrained -, the homage to the colour and verve of street style, and the nods to Africa point to why she's an enduring talent, firmly in a league of her own.

- SLiq

Photos: SDR Photos

Africa Fashion Week 2011: KLuK CGDT [The African Cinderella]

2011-10-21T16:40:00.001-04:00

[Image courtesy of JenaDova]

You may be forgiven for being a little breathless after seeing KLuK CGDT's unprecedented production - one Twitter fan was confessed to being positively weepy (@StyleGuideCT), another said 'I do believe in love - but I'd rather wear Kluk or CGDT' (@IsobelStellar). Superlative, gushy, emotional - call their cult-like profession of admiration what you want; it's all too easily justified. From the sheer breadth of it (we counted about 60 looks), to the alarmingly - yes, alarmingly - brilliant depth of it (everything from embroidered lace to belted paper bag shorts found a place), KLuK CGDT put on a delightfully crammed show that has earned them one of the few prime spots in our hearts.

Lace (African and French) and lightness set the tone for fantastically crafted dresses combining sheer net with embroidered lace cutouts. When lace wasn't acting as an embellishment on the hems and bodices of many-a-dress, it was standing alone as high-waisted ivory trousers and a glamorous buttoned-up blouse - a welcome re-invention of a textile usually reserved for traditional use. A sheer mood pervaded several pieces - sometimes as tunic-like tulle overlays on simple slips, as see-through poet sleeves, and even as a zig-zag motif running through two floor-length frocks. A mostly muted palette of lilac and off-white allowed the craftsmanship to shine through, but a brilliant burst of yellow and print were welcome intrusions in this compelling ode to romance, Africa-style. For all the pieces on display, an interconnectedness held them together where a less seasoned hand may have offered schizophrenia - a well-deserved nod especially in that regard.

From the evening frocks to the day dresses and the ultra chic separated held together by bows and ribbon, KLuK CGDT is clearly gunning for relevance in virtually every aspect of our summer wardrobes, from cocktail parties, to all-night soirees, and afternoon ladies-who-brunch meetings. A collaboration with Cape Cobra on exquisite high-end leather accessories could point to the makings of a KLuK CGDT lifestyle experience. No easy feat to be relevant in many different ways, but perhaps undaunting for a brand that's strong across the board, from ready-to-wear, to bridal, and couture. An extraordinary accomplishment and a pointer to the boundless possibilities Africa holds, and a timely reminder that brilliance abounds in every corner of the continent in ways one cannot always predict.

- SLiq

Photos: SDR Photos

Africa Fashion Week 2011: Day 1 Edit - Tart, Stefania Morland, Mataano

2011-10-21T10:29:00.000-04:00

*Below, we've highlighted the bright sparks from Day 1 of Africa Fashion Week. Later in the day, we'll bring full-length reviews of the most compelling shows. Be on the lookout for our reviews of the Alexander Koutny, Marianne Fassler, and KLuK CGDT shows.

TART - South Africa

A preponderance of black is Tart's forecast for Spring 2012. Possibly too anti-summer sunshine for some - especially given the abundance of colour on many-a-runway the world over - but also a practical, sure-fire approach to seasonless style. When it wasn't veering too close to autumn (we spotted knit and leather), silhouettes were simple and approachable, although not terribly ground-breaking or out of the ordinary. However, the part of us that craves straight-to-the-point clothes is easily swayed in this direction, and perhaps we may even sample the seat belt chic.

STEFANIA MORLAND - South Africa

Lace. Sheer. Bows. Girly, but not in a syrupy or sickeningly sweet way, thank goodness. Once again, not much in the way of bold colour - black (and white) may yet be an emerging trend -, but certainly abounding in charming details. Layered ruffle mini skirts, metallic lace, and a supple silk jacket and romper. As a whole, several looks were too plain and simple, but a few of the gems are highlighted below, with Ajuma's evening frock (above) offering the most irresistible choice.

MATAANO - Somalia/USA

Finally, a healthy dose of fashion vitamin D by way of Mataano. A good number of these pieces were seen - and loved (read our extensive review here) - in New York last month, but the new nautical direction for accessories (rope necklaces, espadrille wedges - mostly white and tan in South Africa to New York's black) lent an air of freshness and summer-worthiness.

Expect more extended reviews from the most memorable and compelling shows throughout the day.

Any favourites yet?

- SLiq

Photos courtesy of SDR Photo

Africa Fashion Week 2011: Why We're Giddy!

2011-10-20T11:44:00.001-04:00

A string of Africa-themed fashion shows have saturated 2011, and now the train moves to one of the most recognized and consistent platforms - Africa Fashion Week, Johannesburg. While Nigeria (Lagos in particular) is hot on South Africa's heels vying for the title of fashion capital, South Africa clearly has a significant early lead. As Helen Jennings, editor of Arise Magazine put it in a recent iFashion interview, 'South Africa is at the forefront of African Fashion - it has the most developed industry, media and market on the continent without a doubt'. With the facts out of the way, here's what most excites us about this year's edition:

i) How to Campaign: Seen above and below, the images that define this year's Africa Fashion Week campaigns are by far the most exciting we've seen. Africa Fashion Week has clearly come of age as the premier fashion gathering on the continent. Beyond the images, however, the flow of information from African Fashion International (AFI, the producers of Africa Fashion Week) has been constant and timely, especially on platforms like Facebook and Twitter. Communication is the heart and soul of any brand, and AFI gets top marks for their effort.

ii) The Revolution Will be Televized: Or at least live-streamed. With the rise in instant gratification provided by live streams on sites such as nowfashion.com and everything from live tweets to instagram adding to the fashion frenzy, more efforts are being made to connect the rest of the world in real-time. This year, Africa Fashion Week takes the bold step of streaming shows live, taking a cue from Capetown Fashion Week's efforts earlier in the year. In addition, photos will be made online almost immediately after the shows as has been the norm. A mighty good start, if you ask us. Watch with us here.

iii) Wide Spread: This is perhaps the most excited we've ever been, and may it may have a thing to do with the diversity of the line-up - Gloria Wavamunno for Uganda, Alexander Koutny for the South African diaspora, Madam Wokie for Sierra Leone, etc. While it's always good to see familiar and established names, the focus on young, varied talent is especially thrilling this year - the Maki Ohs of this world have shown remarkable promise and will certainly define and direct the creative explosion in, around, and beyond the continent. Read the designers' profiles here.

iv) Trade before Aid: Much ado has been made about trade within and with Africa, and the 'business of fashion' is finally being thrown up as a serious possibility. Fashion shows are good, but what's a spectacular show without a guaranteed stream of sales and revenue for our fashion entrepreneurs? If we want more folks to 'Buy African', more stores need to 'Stock African' offline and online. As part of Africa Fashion Week, the inaugural Africa Fashion Trade Expo will take place on October 20, 2011, and highlights will include the AFI Fashion Business Seminar, where panelists like Ozwald Boateng (yes, in the flesh!) and Bunmi Koko's Francis Udom will shed some light on their experiences.

v. Well Done: This year's awards recognize everyone from South Africa's David Tlale (who has had a brilliant year consisting of a 92-models strong show on Nelson Mandela bridge, a store opening in one of South Africa's luxury fashion complexes, and a Volvo collaboration) who's up for Designer of the Year (Africa), to Haute Fashion Africa who earned a nod for Communicator of the Year for the consistency and breadth of their coverage, and Anita Quansah, who has positively exploded in 2011, most notably through the accessory label's presence in several shows, collaborations with leading labels like Jewel by Lisa, and availability in Lagos-based luxury boutique, Temple Muse. While there were some glaring omissions and questionable additions, it's still exciting to see several of Africa's best and brightest celebrated. Vanity Fair's Michael Roberts will be on the panel of judges. See the full list of nominees here.

We'll be watching it all go down tonight via the live stream. See you there? Stay tuned for Shop Liquorice's take on the shows and awards from today until the 22nd of October. We'll probably tweet a thing or two as well.

For more information, visit: http://www.afisa.co.za/?page_id=251

- SLiq

All images courtesy of African Fashion International

Fashion Business Angola: Eric Raisina [Madagascar/Cambodia]

2011-10-19T15:37:00.002-04:00

The brilliance of Malagsy-born designer Eric Raisina's mastery can hardly be overstated. A signature fearless fusion of bold, rich colours, coupled with a keen eye for luxurious details and craftsmanship - his textiles are handmade and dyed by highly skilled artisans in Cambodia - easily set him apart in a league of his own season after season.

For Spring 2012, the emphasis remains on 'haute texture' - Eric Raisina speak for couture with feeling, movement, and a bit of soul - with a dazzling selection of dyed raw silks, crochet netting and raffia, and layers in full plume. The most elaborate pieces (a layered one-handed dress with five colours, a neon green part crochet, part shredded stunner) were rousing displays of mastery. The more (relatively) understated looks wove ink blot dyeing in one look with slim silhouettes and free-floating caftan charm in others.

Colour also played a significant role in Eric Raisina's story-telling, as one might reasonably expect from a designer who copiously references the vibrancy of his native Madagascar - turquoise, lush purples, beautiful blue-green transitions, with a black and white detour in a variety of silhouettes from the fun halter mini to the glam, elegant - and sometimes sexy (a thigh high slit and plunging neckline in one look) - evening looks. All in all, a wide range of moods from the strapless, to the conservative, to the magnificent show stoppers. Variety aside, we can't help but long for the day Eric throws a layered haute jacket into the mix, or a pair of re-constructed pants - we love Mr. Raisina enough to want to see him do more than (mostly) dresses. Don't you?

- SLiq

Photos with thanks, as always, to SDR Photo

Fashion Business Angola 2011: Christie Brown [Ghana]

2011-10-17T20:02:00.001-04:00

For designers who take the wax print route, the challenge of re-inventing their appeal season after season is a significant and compelling challenge in itself. But not for rising star, Christie Brown, apparently - or at least not obviously so. Cutouts meet bare midriffs and signature fabric covered button embellishments, but the real stars of this show are the deft combinations and contrasts - panels of prints and solids co-existing, neon pops diffused with beige - and an overarching air of an increasingly confident and positively self-assured talent.

Modern, cosmopolitan pieces ranging from an effortlessly chic cropped jacket, high-waisted and relaxed, sporty pants, and ladylike charm by way of pleated skirts shone individually and collectively, offering a varied sampling platter of shapes and lengths for fluctuating spring moods. Fabrication was light and unfussy, contributing to the ease of several of the pieces - from colour-blocked print pantaloons to a cropped bustier complete with wax print straps.

Incidentally, while we love a little detail, the simplest pieces were the most satisfying, while the more elaborate (an electric cutout blue dress with with print strips for sleeves and a colour-blocked hemline comes to mind) pieces seemed to tackle much too much. The beauty of artful executions with minimal interruptions shone through, however, in a brilliantly cohesive collection from a refreshingly gifted designer.

Visit: Christie Brown Online

- SLiq

Photos: Simon Deiner Photo

First Look: Lanre da Silva Ajayi S/S 2012 Lookbook

2011-10-17T18:06:00.003-04:00

Fresh off an appearance at Arise Magazine's Made in Africa Collective in New York, Lanre da Silva Ajayi presents a closer look at their offerings for Spring/Summer 2012, featuring America's Next Top Model alum, Aminat Ayinde. A thrilling melange of lace and layers and brights set the stage for a summer worth looking forward to.

See backstage images from LDA's New York Fashion Week show here.

Visit: Lanre da Silva Ajayi

- SLiq

Photos: Lanre da Silva Ajayi
NB - Details of creative shoot behind lookbook to come.

Who Wore What: Estelle in Mimi Plange Fall 2011

2011-10-17T09:10:00.001-04:00

Estelle turned up at BET's Black Girls Rock! event yesterday looking resplendent in red - one of the songstress' most stunning looks yet, following a recent style shift and interest in more ultra femme elegance.

A fitted silhouette, a pleated, ruffled neckline, and a labyrinth of gems pay homage to the ancient art of scarification, and transform Estelle into quite the bombshell. Easily Mimi Plange's most memorable red carpet appearance -- wouldn't you agree?

Visit: Mimi Plange

- SLiq

Photos: The YBF, Zimbio, Beauty is Diverse, Taletela

First Look: Albertus Swanepoel for Target

2011-10-05T18:08:00.000-04:00

A new day, a new Target collaboration! Coming this October: 14 hats in collaboration with legendary South African milliner, Albertus Swanepoel, who has worked with everyone from Diane von Furstenberg, to Proenza Schouler, to J.Crew, and Suno NY [see his portfolio here], and who also won a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award in 2008. According to Target:

The Albertus Swanepoel for Target collection includes 14 colorful and stylish hats for women that feature a blend of vintage appeal mixed with unexpected details such as feathers and ribbon. The pieces are each priced at $19.99 and will be available Oct. 30 through Dec. 22, 2011 at all Target stores and Target.com. The collection includes fedoras, cloches and floppies in solid felt, printed felt and faux fur.

Pretty exciting news, no? See all fourteen exquisitely handmade pieces here.

Eager to own any of them in particular? A certain 'Coming to America' one is begging for space in our closets...

[Mr. Swanepoel and Coco Rocha, courtesy of New York Social Diary]

Shop Albert Swanepoel's full-priced range for Barneys here, keep an eye out for his debut on Net-a-Porter here, and watch him work here!

For more information: www.albertusswanepoel.com

- SLiq

What's In A brand? The Black Coffee Example.

2011-09-30T09:25:00.002-04:00

[Black Coffee at South Africa Fashion Week, September 2011]

Fashion needn't always be straight forward or clear-cut, or at least that seems to be what South Africa's Black Coffee offers season in, season out. Installations over runway shows. Origami petals for spring. And most recently, a fashion presentation called Synthesis, complete with dimmed lights, music, and choreography. While we weren't physically there, videos and photos (see below) easily transport and set us thinking about the intersection of fashion and art, and the myriad ways a collection can be presented. From viral fashion films (like The Row's and Jewel by Lisa's), 3D videos (Norma Kamali's at NYFW) to intimate presentations (Mr. Olowu and Maki Oh come to mind), to full-blown runway shows, plot-filled look books and even as fashion performances, there are several ways to go about making a lasting impression. Runway is all the rage at the moment for many out-of-Africa fashion shows, but we look forward to a little envelope pushing in the days ahead. Creative entrepreneurs/designers: what is the best way to present (or project) your work?

See more photos here, and watch videos here and here.

- SLiq

Photos with many thanks to Christo Doherty

SAFW Winter 2012 - Tiaan Nagel RTW Runway Review

2011-09-28T08:20:00.000-04:00

[Screen captures by Shop Liquorice]

Tiaan Nagel's SAFW collection is a timely reminder that little, well-placed details can mean much, and can amplify an already strong collection - and make it better. With exaggerated, strong shoulders taking centre stage, Tiaan could have stayed at the level of shape alone, but instead infuses pieces with pockets of creative detours - organza sleeves here, square flap there, cutout vents everywhere.

Colour was kept to a bare minimum, with only the faintest hint of blush pink and a green asymmetric dress seeping through bold monochromes. The real joy came from looking at several of the pieces from behind - we spotted organza panels, exposed zippers, unexpected clever cutouts, floaty capes on otherwise smart shirts - making for a fascinating take on duality. Organza added an element of sheerness; one look had a sheer organza hem, another had organza sleeves, while voluminous LBDs had layers of organza and fringing acting almost like feathers and wings flapping care-freely - truly a stunning visual treat.

Whether it was dressed up shorts, cropped pants, dresses or statement coats, Tiaan Nagel offered a heart-warmingy memorable collection that thrived on pushing form a little further into the realms of function and fun.

SAFW - Tiaan Nagel - Shot for Ifashion by Joanna Imrie from POST from Post - joannaimrie on Vimeo.

- SLiq

Photos: SDR Photo

SAFW Winter 2012 - Suzaan Heyns RTW Runway Review [True Colours]

2011-09-28T07:31:00.000-04:00

This seasonal collection is conceptualised around showing our true colours, or the internal and external perceptions of the individual.

Leave it to Suzaan Heyns to inject a dose of drama into otherwise mostly lukewarm South Africa Fashion Week (SAFW) proceedings. Granted, drama is firmly ingrained in the brand's DNA, so that's hardly breaking news - standard silhouettes or minimal, straight lines and Suzaan Heyns seldom (if ever) mix, and there always seems to be an overreaching mood of something dark and exploratory. Last winter was for turning the human anatomy on its head; next winter's uses the age-old tug-of-war between who we are and how we present ourselves as its context.

Fish scale paillettes were offered in leather, suggesting an armour-like take on clothing - an update of sorts on chain-mail, if you like. Other paillettes were done in metallics, softening a palette of blacks, ash greys, purples and midnight blues. Some pieces offered an interesting mix of colours - slivers of purple on a draped black blouse, slivers of black on a purple dress (I see your true colours shining through?). Nudes offered a compelling contrast as draped, sometimes slouchy outerwear, while separates kept the mood fluctuating between draped and a dose of bold - a pair of loose pants was paired with metallic fish scales and a draped cardigan, and a chiffon dress was embellished with scales from the spine to the hem - a beautiful merger of moods.

Layering was an important component in a collection that ranged from a mini dress with layered scales to a stunning camel (wool) dress with disproportionate sleeves and a floor length skirt shown alongside floor length coats - think layers of shrug jackets and tanks paired with skirts and jodphurs, or a dress that combined a satin finish, mesh, and scales. For accessories, Suzaan Heyns introduced mesh scarves, swim caps and shoes revamped with scales, metallic belts, and patchwork leather bags from an ongoing collaboration with Leather Rose.

In all, we went away thoroughly excited by Suzaan Heyns' new take on adventure, and were particularly impressed that the balance of edge and wearable found an amicable meeting point in this collection - a sleek finish indeed.

SAFW - Suzaan Heyns shot for Ifashion by Joanna Imrie from Post - joannaimrie on Vimeo.

- SLiq

Photos: SDR Photo

Shop Africa: Afromania by Nkwo

2011-09-23T10:06:00.000-04:00

Yes, folks...a light-hearted Friday invitation to Shop Africa, by way of Nkwo's Afromania collection. Good prices, great variety. Do it, do it (here. now.) It'll make you happy. Promise.

- SLiq

Buy-It-Now: Urbanknit's Batik Shawl

2011-09-23T05:42:00.001-04:00

Not long ago, we spent quality time with our 102-year-old grandmother (let's call her Grandma Liquorice!) as she gave us a practical lesson (yes, we had indigo-stained hands for days) on the art of tie-and-dye. Naturally, we took an immediate liking to this Urbanknit piece, not least because of its unique batik print. The irregularity of the pattern shows it was painstakingly done by hand by a skilled artisan, making it one-of-a-kind. A beautiful, wearable piece of art as seasons change and temperatures drop and a worthy investment.

Get yours here.

- SLiq

Shop Liquorice's "Buy-it-Now" series takes our obsession with "Shopping Africa" a little further. Need chic and cheap pieces and not sure where to look? Eager to include Africa on your shopping list but don't have lots to spare? Shop Liquorice's "Buy-it-Now" presents the most fabulous finds on the web, so all you have to do is click and wait for your piece of Africa to make its way to you.

Who Wore What: Caroline Issa and Michelle Obama in Duro Olowu

2011-09-23T05:38:00.002-04:00

An invite to Downing Street for post-fashion week festivities requires something out of the ordinary, so Caroline Issa (who we've featured here before), editor of Tank Magazine, decided on Duro Olowu. Graphic, bold, but still completely graceful. Here are other times Caroline has been spotted in Duro Olowu:

Very, very classy indeed. The blouse featured in the third look is also a Duro Olowu piece, and another graphic Duro Olowu shirt is available online here, via Yoox. Several pieces from Duro Olowu's past collection are also available here (via Couture Lab), while Barneys has stocked up on bits and pieces from his Fall 2011 collection. Has 2011 been the Year of Duro or what?

We can seldom mention Mr. Olowu these days without throwing Mrs. O into the mix. She was pictured earlier this week in a Duro Olowu dress which she last wore in April as a guest on the Oprah show. This is the 8th time Mrs. O has worn Duro Olowu this year alone.

- SLiq

Photos

Vogue

Style

Mrs. O

LFW Spring 2012 - Bunmi Koko RTW Runway Review

2011-09-22T15:14:00.001-04:00

Strong, increasingly magnetic live vocals from 12-year-old wunderkid Tallia Storm hovered over the catwalk, ushering in piece after piece of a magnificent display. Part story-telling, part performance art, each piece held its place firmly in an unfolding narrative of a tragic - but endlessly beautiful - sea-duction. Significantly expanded from their New York showing last week (11 pieces then, 22 now), gradients of sea blue, peach, white, deep purple, with bursts of yellow and undertones of nude pervaded the runway as fin-like flaps, origami structures, and laser-cut neoprene mimicking sea anemone. It began with a simultaneously structured and free purple dress with sliced out sleeve detailing and sheer panels, and ended with a white lace dress consisting of a labyrinth of intertwined elements - a stunning blanched coral reef in motion. Masterful, poetic, compelling - and almost overpoweringly beautiful.

***

Shop Liquorice was well-represented at the show, and we brought this back for you. Enjoy the little details.

See photos here and here.

- SLiq

LFW Spring 2012 - Tiffany Amber RTW Runway Review

2011-09-22T15:12:00.003-04:00

Glamour, chic and elegance roll off the tongue easily where Tiffany Amber is concerned, but perhaps it's too much of an oversimplification to equate an ever evolving Tiffany Amber with just jewel tones, laidback silk caftans, and floor-sweeping frocks. In recent times (compared to other instances in the brand's thirteen-year history), the brand's inherent glamour has been amplified and expanded to include more edge, more diversity, and wider appeal beyond cocktail parties and the red carpet.

For Spring/Summer 2012, elegant vintage trunk boxes and oversized sunglasses denote a glamorous jet-setter in transit, with a wide-spanning just-in-case wardrobe in tow: supple silk dresses and caftans (very classic Tiffany Amber, but with sheer sleeves and cutout bibs and necklines), an ultra chic silk white trench, an emerald jumpsuit, lace shorts, chic skinny pants, mini dresses, signature separates, and floor grazers. Effortless draping is recurrent, as is a prevailing relaxed, unruffled mood alongside more adventurous cuts and details: thigh high slits, a plunging neckline, cutout sleeves and waistlines, a micro lace skirt, print short shorts, and sheer fabrication. A mint green dress with a sweetheart bust and undulating waves had a sheer panel across the thigh - very new Tiffany, and very, very cool. A scrumptious mix indeed for the woman who wants a bit of everything (and a perfect recipe for excess luggage charges).

A rich colour palette ranging from emerald, forest and mint greens, deep blue, hints of purple and pink, canary yellow for a one-handed, timeless piece, and white, all punctuated with swirls (which we found a little too dull in the brown version, but much more compelling in purple) and our favourite print of any we've seen so far this season - a striking recurring image of a horse's head. In brown, it was easily the main attraction in a mixed bag of pieces, especially done as a chic suit with matching cropped pants, and as a pair of skinny silk pants paired with a draped sheer purple wrap. If we could have paused the collection at two moments, it would've been when those two pieces made it down the runway - an impeccably chic Tiffany Amber and a very welcome direction indeed.

In all, London got to sample a gorgeous platter of diverse, wide-ranging pieces from one of Nigeria's fastest-growing and most relevant brands. Clearly, Tiffany Amber knows a thing or three about what women want (or don't even yet know they want).

See more photos here and here.

- SLiq

Photos:

Memoirmode

Photo Diary: Arise Made in Africa Real Style

2011-09-20T13:12:00.001-04:00

Arise Magazine's Made in Africa event may have come and gone, but it's not too late to join us on a stylish excursion as we highlight the real style on display, with pictures courtesy of Seye at Rocks and Roses (she's the gorgeous lady in the ikat jacket below), and words and collages by Shop Liquorice. Enjoy.

Fun times, no?

- SLiq

Many, many thanks to Seye!

Who Wore What: The Deola Sagoe & Duro Olowu Edition

2011-09-19T06:05:00.001-04:00

[Alek Wek in Deola Sagoe. Image via Haute Living]

Africa spotting is one of our favourite past times here at Shop Liquorice, and the WIE Ladies Night Cocktail Hour and Gala Dinner event this past Saturday is our latest playground.

We spotted SLiq favourite Alek Wek in a gorgeous Deola Sagoe dress (seen here early last year at a RED event). Aso-oke has been one of the biggest trends this year (thanks to Deola Sagoe, Ituen Basi and Kemkemstudio, among others) and looks set for further exploration in seasons to come.

Designer Rachel Roy was spotted in a must-have Duro Olowu dress aptly called The Duro. From its debut in 2004, it has become quite the fashion staple, launching Duro Olowu's career on a high note indeed.

Finally, Thelma Golden always looks at ease in her Duro Olowu pieces, including this look from the designer's Spring 2011 collection. Duro Olowu's take on print-on-print is always endlessly fascinating.

Which look is your favourite?

- SLiq

Photos:

Billy Farrell Agency

NYFW Spring 2012 -KLUK CGDT Made in Africa RTW Runway Review

2011-09-17T21:58:00.001-04:00

Total looks: 15

KLUK CGDT's pieces usually run the whole gamut - chic tailored jackets, haute couture dresses, and a certain romantic air of lightness and softness. For Arise's Made in Africa collective, softness was the mood of choice, with layered, voluminous sheer dresses sweeping the runway, helped along by delicately embroidered hems and an entourage of fluffy feathers on a cropped jacket - a truly exquisite piece.

Veering away from what they do so well and into the territory of lace, was unexpected - at times it served them well (a sculpted satin blouse with black tulle skirt covered in lace flowers was spectacular), other times the lace seemed to detract from the experience. Nonetheless, it was the see-through tulles that pervaded the show, tastefully revealing undergarments, with embroidered lace and flowers adorning necklines and hemlines, infusing them with additional layers of detail and colour. Pinks and nudes were memorable highlights, with a other pieces delving into darker territory (deep blues and blacks).

Separates were also strong, with an emphasis on pairing more delicate features with the more sturdy - an asymmetric tulle dress was paired with pants, and a tulle skirt was paired with a blouse. Floor length dresses in midnight blue and soft lilac were adorned with zig-zag sheer panels and plunging backs, and in one case what seemed to be a furry raccoon tail. A darling dress with poet sleeves and a ruff collar was beautiful and delicate at once but interrupted with a little too much lace embroidery, as a few other looks were with oversized, chunky jewelry that competed with the pieces instead of complementing them. The pieces that were left alone mostly uninterrupted in their natural state of elegance seemed to work best. In all, Kluk CGDT showed a softer, more delicate side of fashion coming from the African continent, injecting evening wear with a bit of cheek, spunk, and elegance.

- SLiq

Photos: Bella Naija via Getty Images

NYFW Spring 2012 - Jewel by Lisa Made in Africa RTW Runway Review

2011-09-17T20:43:00.005-04:00

Total looks: 18

When Jewel by Lisa entered the scene in 2005, few could have predicted embellished tiered skirts would usher in one of Africa's most recognized and loved brands. With that love at an all-time high, JBL seems to have taken the liberty to chart new courses - a welcome, fruitful soul-searching indeed - but what does this mean for JBL enthusiasts who may be accustomed to a certain way?

While the JBL label takes its global appeal very seriously, it was surprising to see a first of its kind return to roots for Spring 2012, with vintage photographs (JD Okhai's in particular) and Nigeria in the 60s influencing silhouettes and mood. Think of this new direction as a sampling platter of a modern take on heritage and tradition, taking JBL on a new journey with lace (she tries it on for size, it seems, and it's a perfect fit - more, please), traditional menswear silhouettes common in Western Nigeria, with more than a pit stop in a colonial heritage of safari chic, and an array of custom prints, ranging from the abstract 'dancing women' (a moment of pure genius) to a joyful array of candy colours.

Detail shots via Vogue It

Several pieces carried a lady-like air and grace (an olive lace dress with a print underlay, duly belted), while others dipped in menswear territory but with a feminine tilt - the opening look of a femine take on the male agbada in yellow lace was a stunning tribute. Granted, it was a detour from a quintessentially sexy, cool ethos, but once the bling showed up on shorts and minis and low cut backs were revealed, part of that instantly recognizable air returned. Yet, this revamped JBL also had a painfully chic silk safari suit complete with a matching fila; the fila itself an unusual inclusion for a label known for delectable beaded statement necklaces and box clutches (the latter fully reloaded for Spring). Colours ranged from brown to brighter pinks and yellows, but the overall spirit wasn't a restrained, joyful one - it seemed serious and grown-up in many of the looks. Notably, dresses were the prevailing look, followed closely by dazzling separates, but we desperately hoped for one of JBL's undoubtedly chic jackets, which the inspiration for this season, sadly, did not accommodate.

While wax prints and silk prints were conjoined in previous collections, Spring 2012 sees them stand more alone as separate, complimentary entities, with pieces you might not easily pick out as JBL if you weren't told - a maxi print dress with military pockets, for instance. Granted, wax print was combined with lace strips as an exciting new take on JBL's signature patchwork-like motifs. Nevertheless, this collection was a bold step in a new direction, it seems, as JBL turns a sharp corner in its aesthetic in what was came off as a boldly experimental collection, sampling various elements - same ol' JBL girl, but in a different era entirely and significantly more mature. Truth be told, we sometimes felt a little lost and unfamiliar - this showcase included many of the usual suspects, but they don't seem completely at ease with new inclusions (or at least not yet). A case of clinginess to the old on our parts, perhaps. The hope, though, is that next season, a clearer, more interdependent showcase will result from this sharp turn in the right direction.

- SLiq

Images: Getty Images via Bella Naija

NYFW Spring 2012 - Lanre da Silva-Ajayi Made in Africa Runway Review

2011-09-17T20:17:00.002-04:00

Total looks: 16

Lanre da Silva-Ajayi's pieces always seem to have an effortless innate, elegance about them, and for her showing at Arise, LDA stepped boldly into that core, using luxurious lace as a base, an embellishment, and as colorful layers invoking the sense of an alluring, wild bloom and delicate flapping butterflies. Strong, bold colours were combined with mastery, enhancing - not drowning - clean lines and silhouettes.

A visual treat ensued, as a pink lace skirt was highlighted by yellow undertones and paired with a satin blouse spruced with an embellished white lace bib, alongside a see-through neon green lace blouse, and layered purple lace shorts. For all the deft use colour, black seemed to lurk and eventually infiltrate, showing up as a belt, hem, and then a full-blown blouse. A light powder pink was combined with white and covered in petals and stones, giving the illusion of a creeping bloom contained and turned into a lampshade in one look and a strong bouquet shoulder in another. This was very LDA - art, class, construction (not unlike Italian architecture she used as a reference point this season), and we wished she stayed in this moment a little longer.

LDA offered a variety that ranged from sheath dresses in a more subdued palette of grey, black, and white tweeds, jackets with a slight peplum, and chic pencil maxi skirts, all tailored to fit and dip in all the right places. For several of the separates, the focus was kept on strong, detailed skirts, with blouses acting as tempering contrasts. A word on LDA's statement use of custom prints - sheer layers were combined with highlighter brights toned down with a brown butterfly print breaking through. This was a more adventurous LDA, moving boldly into a more colorful territory and transforming the textile into statement column maxi skirts and playful dresses, all infused with signature lace - same LDA, but also refreshingly different.

(Backstage detail shot courtesy of Style by Queens)

In the end, a keen eye for texture, colour, detail, shape, and layering trumped, co-existed, and resulted in a varied, delightful celebration of Lanre's take on femininity - hardly flimsy or easily subdued; instead, very poised, strong, memorable - a true show stopper.

- SLiq

Images: Getty Images via Bella Naija

NYFW Spring 2012 - Pierre Antoine Vettorello Made in Africa RTW Runway Review

2011-09-17T20:16:00.011-04:00

Total looks: 10

One might be forgiven for expecting an excursion to flighty places with Pierre Antoine Vettorello, and one might be forgiven for coming away with mixed feelings. After an electrifying show at Arise Magazine Fashion Week in Lagos, after which he was awarded the Most Innovative Designer of the year award, we - perhaps wrongly - equated Pierre with an avant-garde aesthetic; a certain high art, borderline theatrical quality that his pieces at New York didn't seem to fully embrace.

Jaws burst out of satin blouses when Pierre was at his finest, silhouettes were simple and not far-reaching enough when he started to stray. Case in point: short, swingy skirts and short shorts - pretty, but that's not what we come to Pierre for.

The colour palette was rich in deep blue and maroon, with gorgeous prints emerging along the way, but not fully explored in this 10-piece collection. Highlights include a suede armour-like jacket, elaborate venus fly trap hats, and a cropped sleeveless suede jacket with two frontal pockets, while other pieces ranged from a silver jacket to a belted romper.

Granted, Pierre is fiercely talented, but perhaps this New York showcase was premature and tame. It is possible to find a balance between art and commercial success, and there's every sense that Pierre Antoine Vettorello may need to rediscover that balance.

- SLiq

Images: Getty Images via Bella Naija

NYFW Spring 2012 - Bunmi Koko Made in Africa Runway Review

2011-09-17T19:53:00.001-04:00

Total looks: 11

Bunmi Koko comes with a confidence that doesn't need to announce itself or brag but isn't bashful either - the level of work and thought that goes into each collection, from planning to execution is always evident in the final product. Whether the inspiration is geishas, masquerades, or the alluring sirens of Greek mythology as it was for Spring 2012, the result always bears the stamp of expert, sure hands.

It began with a sleeveless slip-like dress in a very light orange and rounded off with a full blown Bunmi Koko production - floor length, sculpted, origami bodice, sheer skirt, midnight blue, yellow highlights; a truly extraordinary piece of work, competing with only an origami jacket with a beige inset belted with rope for our full attention. A vaguely nautical theme pervaded in the sampling of aqua and cool blues and pleated prints mimicking the surface of water, while the pairing of a layered, pleated yellow skirt and a sheer yellow blouse with stunning breakaway flaps was heartbreakingly perfect.

[Screen capture by Shop Liquorice]

One small problem - this collection featured only eleven pieces and while we wished we could've seen more, we have to admit that it also seemed fully complete. Pieces seemed more fluid and relaxed - uncharacteristic of Bunmi Koko's previous collections with strong angular sleeves on statement dresses and jackets - but still very confident, from a pintucked sleeveless blouse paired with pleated palazzo pants, to swim wear, and the most extraordinary sheer, cropped top held up with a silver bra paired with a free silk below-the-knee skirt.

Some pieces may have been a little too relaxed, but the mastery that held the collection together, and the details - from sheer nude sleeves, to rope belts and chunky rope necklaces - were robust and spellbinding. Bunmi Olaye is a gifted story teller and as the collection moved from yellow to blue, reminding us of the strong alluring pull of Greek sirens and the eventual drowning and destruction of their targets, it may not be too farfetched to say Bunmi Koko blew this one out of the water.

- SLiq

Photos: Getty Images via Bella Naija

NYFW Spring 2012 - Tsemaye Binitie Made in Africa RTW Runway Review

2011-09-17T19:30:00.001-04:00

Total looks: 17

For Tsemaye Binitie's Spring 2012 collection, clean lines may touch on a minimalist sensibility, but what also emerges is a strong eye for detail (sheer insets in white pants and a pink jacket, for instance) and a mixed bag of pieces that lend themselves to multiple uses. What Binitie lacks (by no means an adverse 'lack') in pomp, he makes up for in practicality rooted in a quiet but increasingly confident creativity.

There was a gradual build-up from more simple (requisite maxi skirts, pants and simple dresses) to more visually engaging pieces - one standout layered pink dress broke through the pack, as did a red carpet ready white lace dress with organza sleeves and an elaborate feather hem - a luxurious blend of elements expertly tackled. Pieces were at once covered up and revealing with the use of sheer overlays and lace, but it was details like a floaty train on a floor length gray dress, and the use of billowy vents on seemingly plain pieces that gave the collection movement and charm. Unfortunately, little of this is captured in the runway photographs - great emphasis is placed on frontal shots while the real action happened behind. Exposed zips were prevalent, as were thigh high slits that amped up the sultriness. Custom Tsemaye Binitie leather belts adorned with crystals kept the focus on the waistline.

Colours graduated from white to pink and gold, with black and grey detours (as seen in jersey on the back of a prim belted white leotard - again, a missing detail in runway shots), with pieces showing a remarkable range from a pink embellished blouse, to a knockout floor length dress in pink and red jewel tones, and a short and sweet little white dress. Admittedly, some pieces were not strong or Tsemaye enough (a short gold dress comes to mind), but the majority of pieces were re-assuring enough that Tsemanye is a strong rising star - easily the breakout star of the evening.

From choice of fabric to construction, execution and a stunning point of view (seen here and in previous collections), there's hardly any doubt in our minds that this two-year old brand has much to contribute to the future of luxury in Africa and beyond.

- SLiq

Photos: Getty Images via Bella Naija

NYFW Spring 2012 - Asibelua Made In Africa RTW Runway Review

2011-09-17T19:18:00.000-04:00

Total looks: 20

Accepting the mantle for re-defining African fashion on the global stage where Africa is sometimes relegated to wild prints and safaris, is Asibelua. It's what, in one sense, several African designers have quietly accepted to do, but Asibelua has been bold about embracing the opportunity and taking on the challenge as a specific and guiding end goal.

For Spring, Asibelua takes the ancient art of tie and dye and injects it with movement and modernity through the use of silk, retaining its traditional sensibilities through colour choice (deep indigo and purple, chocolate brown) but sprucing it up with a graphic, contemporary quality. Audacious (but ultimately well-played) pattern play erupted, like interlocked splitting amoeba cells dotted with brown showing up as roomy blazers, dresses and a pencil skirt, resulting in a refreshingly comprehensive - and cohesive - range of options.

Black, white and yellow checks and plaids gave the illusion of iridescence and vanishing dots, a blue tunic referenced Zebra print without being blindingly obvious, and tame leopard-inspired print jackets and tops said Africa where others might have screamed. Sporty chic seeped through via pedal pushers, but a delightful melange of dresses (and one floaty tie-and-dye caftan) ranging from chic belted sheaths to expertly arranged panels and contrasts stole the spotlight. Pants were sharp and bold, and tops came in tube, airy blouses and camisoles, further breaking pieces up before tying them together with belts. The overall mood exuded chicness and occupied the small space between restraint and total freedom - hems were below the knee in some looks, above in others, and necklines ranged from round to dipped vs.

With the array of colours (such as a dominant orange and turquoise motif in a wax print-like motif, and yellow highlights throughout, showing up predominantly as belts) and the remarkable range of options, from a floor length plaid skirt to a tie dye cardigan, Asibelua has proven a clear point in tackling multiple elements with skill - Africa can influence in a practical way and the balance between traditional and contemporary can reference both elements equally without drowning one out. A remarkably intelligent runway debut with a strong, clear voice and direction.

- SLiq

First Look: 11 Previously Unseen Looks from Asibelua

2011-09-15T16:26:00.000-04:00

Fati Asibelua's latest venture, Asibelua, is not to be mistaken for her better-known Momo. While the latter is headquartered in Abuja, Nigeria, the former, Momo's sister label, 'focuses more on ready-to-wear collections for the international market' and is based in London. Same use of exquisite, luxurious, custom prints, same 'African signature', but catering to the demand for pieces that capture the essence of contemporary Africa outside Africa's shores.

Last season saw a flurry of floral, animal and tie-dye prints boldly announcing the arrival of Asibelua. In a few hours, Asibelua will showcase its third collection at the Made in Africa show at New York Fashion Week. Before then, Shop Liquorice brings you a first look at previously unseen Asibelua pieces, courtesy of the brand new asibelua.com. The website is still a work in progress, but at least we all get to sample the brand's essence before we meet it on the runway.

(Screen capture from asibelua.com)

- SLiq

NYFW Spring 2012 - Ere Dappa RTW Runway Review

2011-09-15T11:35:00.001-04:00

My trademark is beadwork. - Ere Dappa

When Yoruba artisans painstakingly hand beaded shoes, bags, and vests for royalty and diviners centuries ago, chances are they didn't think their art would transcend time and place to emerge as crafted mini dresses on the runways of New York. Yet, when Ere Dappa showed her S/S 2012 'Sun-sation' collection in New York, it seemed to invoke a strong heritage of history, art, and crafstmanship.

'Sun-sation' isn't print for the sake of print - it's print from a new perspective, with beads adorning the entire surface area of several pieces, elevating ankara and infusing it with a multi-dimensional brilliance. It takes Africa's ubiquitous wax prints and turns them into living, breathing works of art - no mean feat for a textile that has gone from obscure in some circles, to over-exposed.

Silhouettes were kept simple with shift dresses taking centre stage in colours ranging from gold, to pink and white in particular, with one dress combining multiple colourways (brown, pink, blue, gold, white), a maze of beadwork around each pattern and a low cut back. While one can't help but wonder how more intricate shapes would respond to Ere Dappa's trademark beading, there's no doubt that there's elegance in simplicity and Ere Dappa is one of Africa's most sensational.

- SLiq

Photos courtesy of thefashionisette

NYFW Spring 2012 - Korto Momolu RTW Runway Review

2011-09-15T09:59:00.000-04:00

From the first look - artfully draped billowy silk pants - to the last, Korto Momolu neatly summed up her forecast for Spring 2012. Draped silk dresses in orange and graphic black, cream and white prints lit up the runway, with chic separates and lace-infused dresses playing compelling supporting roles.

Dresses were offered in a range of lengths and styles - from a quietly glamorous asymmetric off-shoulder orange dress, to a layered mixed print floor skimmer with a bold black underlay. Necklines plunged in a tasteful v, with their downward descent seemingly interrupted by skinny orange belts. Restraint aside, dresses moved unhindered and shared the stage with more structured kimono-style shapes (a particular cream pleated dress was memorable), tailored pants, and a mini skirt.

Custom chunky beaded and Tuareg style Korto Momolu necklaces adorned necklines, while poofy mohawks with braided ponytails were the choice for hair. A dazzling display for all in need of sophisticated, unashamedly sexy, varied pieces, and a brilliant outing for Korto Momolu.

Video footage:

More photos here.

- SLiq

All photos courtesy of solifestyle

NYFW Spring 2012 - Mataano RTW Runway Review

2011-09-14T14:16:00.000-04:00

Spring 2012 for design duo Mataano is a positively vibrant affair requiring a bold line-up of colours with a relaxed 'girls just want to have fun' vibe running through each piece. A loud explosion of citrusy tangerine happened beside a gorgeous hibiscus print, while a more restrained garden print flowered freely against a deep green backdrop. Fabric ranged from soft denim to breathable cottons, jersey and chiffon.

The Mataano girls are masters of simplicity, so there wasn't anything in the way of ground breaking tailoring or extravagant silhouettes - instead, styles ranged from easy minis to punchy maxis, rompers, and shorts. Cropped bustiers contributed to the carefree vibe and layered ruffle skirts all but screamed luau. Thoughtful details such as the floppy sleeves on a romper and the zig zag neckline on a simple dresses lent charm to the whole affair, while a cool blue ran through the collection, softening the pattern play, espadrilles kept the looks firmly grounded, and accessories by Peppercotton added hints of sparkle.

While there were one or two pieces the collection could have done without (a halter dress that overloaded on print, and a short ruffle orange dress), one can't help but adore the bright pants, their use of stonewash blue as a neutral base, and the knockout piece - a bright dress offset with a floral crochet-like bodice. A beautiful tropical storm indeed.

- SLiq

Photos:

Mataano

Farai Today

SLiq Picks: Alek Wek for Stylist Magazine

2011-09-14T08:51:00.002-04:00

It's hardly a secret that we love Alek Wek here at Shop Liquorice (see past posts here), and while we don't see her featured as much these days, we love an Alek Wek editorial whenever we see one. Head on over to Stylist Magazine to see her shine all through her Alpha Female editorial, harnesses and all, and pick up some nuggets of wisdom from her interview:

How do you feel fashion has empowered you?

It’s opened so many doors for me. It’s given me a career. I’m able to pay my bills, help my family, travel the world and I’m very grateful for that. But the most humbling part is the voice it’s given me. I believe we should utilise any power we have for important issues that are bigger and beyond us. Whether it’s with refugees or working to educate kids. I don’t think you need to have gone through a civil war to do something. I believe as human beings we can look out for each other. That’s when I started to work with the US Committee for Refugees and Doctors Without Borders because they put their lives on the line to help save people.

Times were tough when you first started in the fashion industry. How did you keep going?

The fact that designers like Lagerfeld, Gaultier, Galliano and Dior could believe in Alek made me believe in myself too. I had only been out of Sudan six or seven years. I was catching up to a new culture and they totally embraced me. It’s not like I had an easy look. I had to pound the streets of New York with my book. I had two pairs of pants and no money.

More here.

- SLiq

Update:

Here's a look at the available covers: