Sunday, February 14, 2010

ARISE MAGAZINE AFRICAN FASHION COLLECTIVE III: BLACK COFFEE [NYFW WINTER 2010]


BLACK COFFEE (SOUTH AFRICA)


ABOUT THE SHOW:

"Counterpoint is a body of work that consciously re-engineers the aesthetic convention and function of the coat. The powdery romanticism of the palette and the unassuming comfort of the textiles find a counterpoint in the segmented construction of these inspired garments." [Black Coffee]

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Black Coffee [run by South Africa's Jacques van der Watt and Danica Lepen]  put on quite the show at the Arise Collective yesterday, albeit somewhat of an incomplete show. Themed "Counterpoint" [i.e. to emphasize by contrast], the focus was on outerwear and featured cocoon-like long jackets brought to life through spectacular pleats, ruffles, and layers, and held in place with simple hooks for utility sake. There seemed to be a transition also - from the fairly basic to the more structured, resulting in a full circle bloom of craft and layers. The color palette was kept muted and featured grays, powder blues, and peaches with a touch of taupe and brown. For Black Coffee, the era of the statement coat is well upon us and requires minimal fuss - a simple dress, vintage pumps and gloves, and oversize Africa-inspired earrings should do just fine for the 21st century woman who appreciates a dose of glamor every now and again. Here are the pieces up close and personal [click "continue reading" below to see the entire post]:

a. A transition from cocoon shapes to more structured pieces









b. Suede coats


c. Powder blue - playing with draping and looser fits


d. Soft peach and almost pink - a replication of two looks from section a. above, done in the most gorgeous colors.


f. A touch of gray


CLOSING THOUGHTS: While we understand that their overriding mission was to re-invent the coat and while there are a number of coats we covet for their play on shape and design, we have to say we feel a little robbed of the opportunity to see Black Coffee's mastery of range. After all is said and done, though, Black Coffee put on a cohesive, brilliantly-executed and commendable show.

XO

Source: Getty Images

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