Wednesday, June 30, 2010

STYLE NOTES: Deola Sagoe//Nigeria [DAY 1, Africa Fashion Week, 2010]

There's no way to go about this without being dramatic: Deola Sagoe broke the faucet and rained down glamour. 

It was a staggering and stunning downpour at Deola Sagoe's show earlier today - an avalanche of influences from the swinging 60s, to a dash of victorian glamour and a perhaps subconscious dose of underwater inspiration. From dresses that mimicked the glorious metallic colors of fish and their dazzling scales re-invented as sequins and embellishments, we couldn't shake off the feeling of mermaid/otherworldly glamor. For a collection almost exclusively executed in the distinctly African aso-oke [traditionally woven cloth] as many of her past collections have been, this is an astounding testament to Deola Sagoe's ability to invent, re-invent and transcend. 

The emphasis on movement and shape alongside the most stunning design elements (sharp shoulders, embroidery, sheer panels) tied this collection up in a neat little bow and filed it in the 'extraordinary' compartment of our hearts and minds. A stunning and unbelievable sartorial and visual experience.

Here's a closer look at the most striking design elements:

A touch of the polka:

Magnificent floor-length frocks

Gorgeous multi-tone metallic looks that reminded us very much of colorful fish:

Mini metallica:

Lace and sheer panels:

A dose of black:

Shape and movement:

Victorian glamour, complete with lace and plaid:

Skater waists and sharp sleeves/shoulders:

The designer herself:


See the entire collection here, courtesy of AFI.



SET said...

Amazing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am impressed. I have been to her store in Lagos. Awesome.

There...I said it! said...

I realise that Deola Sagoe is the sacred cow of nigerian fashion and any criticism will be promptly drowned out by the adoring masses, but I can no longer bite my tongue.
that collection was glamourous but that is where the positives end. If Obsidian or Phunkafrique had produced those pieces, I would have done my usual "meh...nice?" but from the self appointed capo di tutti capi of african creativity, I say try again. Origami shapes are "over" enough to be on the sales racks in Primark and MERMAID DRESSES. This collection as a follow on from New York (which was equally underwhelming but at least she made an effort to be modern and relevant) is beyond incoherent to me.
Im sorry for the rant, but she rarely gets called out for copying (check Manish Arora if your interested in the inspiration of her much photographed cartoon dress) or for producing lacklustre designs i.e. These! because she is officially a national treasure but from her offerings of late I suspect she might be believing her own hype.

NSC Fashion Network said...

I respect but I strongly disagree with the "There...I said it!" comment. Deola Sagoe collection is gorgeous and creative. Every silhouette was well crafted and beautifully done.

I know the trends for Fall 2010 are moving away from origami garments but her textiles and prints set her designs apart from the rest.

Mermaid dresses are a timeless classic and never a trend.