Africa Fashion Week 2011: Day - 1 Alexander Koutny [South Africa/NY]

Much has been made of cross-border appeal in our increasingly global village - fashion beyond borders, if you like - and its insatiable appetite for newness. While it may yet be a distant and daunting dream for many out-of-Africa designers battling constraints from funding to infrastructure, Johannesburg-born and Central Saint Martins MA graduate Alexander Koutny is already fluent in international speak. His home-coming collection brought with it a dark turn - a detour of sorts from his recent flirtations with print, but it also hearkened back to earlier collections when black was his base.

Obvious heaviness aside - wool, tights, leather, heavy coats and layering, however gorgeous, don't exactly scream Spring however you cut it - but, incidentally, it's the strong finger on cut, technique and detail we are most curious about here. Seen from a sculpted origami jacket with strong angular shapes (the statement jacket to end all statement jackets, save for a Viktor and Rolf creation) to a layer of mesh peeking from a boxy, asymmetric layer, mesh skin tight leggings paired with a silk blouse and hair extensions playing the role of embroidery; it's an artful tug-of-war between dark and light from which neither ultimately prevails because they are so beautifully combined. Many pieces started as simple crew necks, from which they became an angular cocoon dress in one case and an asymmetric piece with padded sleeves in another.

For a designer who left South Africa to escape 'commercialism', his attention to detail is hardly surprising and bears the traces of an aesthetic fine-tuned and understood over time - this level of effortlessness doesn't just happen. Sadly, the fine art of approachable construction that distinguishes Koutny isn't obvious in these one-dimensional photos; this strikes us as the sort of collection you meet one-on-one and deconstruct, layer by layer. In the absence of that, however, Koutny has evidently returned to South Africa fully formed with a strong point of view and his own self-assured take on international chic. We await his future projects somewhat impatiently, while we hope for a forecast of more lightness and less wool next summer.

- SLiq

Photos courtesy of SDR Photos

NYFW Spring 2012 - Korto Momolu RTW Runway Review

From the first look - artfully draped billowy silk pants - to the last, Korto Momolu neatly summed up her forecast for Spring 2012. Draped silk dresses in orange and graphic black, cream and white prints lit up the runway, with chic separates and lace-infused dresses playing compelling supporting roles.

Dresses were offered in a range of lengths and styles - from a quietly glamorous asymmetric off-shoulder orange dress, to a layered mixed print floor skimmer with a bold black underlay. Necklines plunged in a tasteful v, with their downward descent seemingly interrupted by skinny orange belts. Restraint aside, dresses moved unhindered and shared the stage with more structured kimono-style shapes (a particular cream pleated dress was memorable), tailored pants, and a mini skirt.

Custom chunky beaded and Tuareg style Korto Momolu necklaces adorned necklines, while poofy mohawks with braided ponytails were the choice for hair. A dazzling display for all in need of sophisticated, unashamedly sexy, varied pieces, and a brilliant outing for Korto Momolu.

Video footage:

More photos here.

- SLiq

All photos courtesy of solifestyle

NYFW Spring 2012 - Mataano RTW Runway Review

Spring 2012 for design duo Mataano is a positively vibrant affair requiring a bold line-up of colours with a relaxed 'girls just want to have fun' vibe running through each piece. A loud explosion of citrusy tangerine happened beside a gorgeous hibiscus print, while a more restrained garden print flowered freely against a deep green backdrop. Fabric ranged from soft denim to breathable cottons, jersey and chiffon.

                        

The Mataano girls are masters of simplicity, so there wasn't anything in the way of ground breaking tailoring or extravagant silhouettes - instead, styles ranged from easy minis to punchy maxis, rompers, and shorts. Cropped bustiers contributed to the carefree vibe and layered ruffle skirts all but screamed luau. Thoughtful details such as the floppy sleeves on a romper and the zig zag neckline on a simple dresses lent charm to the whole affair, while a cool blue ran through the collection, softening the pattern play, espadrilles kept the looks firmly grounded, and accessories by Peppercotton added hints of sparkle.

NYFW Spring 2012 - Mimi Plange's 'A Flower In The Desert'

Image: The House of Fabulous

Last season, it was the ancient practice of tribal scarification in parts of Africa as a reference point; for Spring, Mimi Plange turned to Namibia's Herero (their Victorian style of dress is very much in tune with Mimi Plange's most consistent source of inspiration) Nimba's nomadic desert people (steeped in culture but transitioning to modern ways of life) and the far East (cheongasms and robes received an update).

In Mimi Plange's still life presentation, floral silks found a place beside beaded and embroidered dresses in an array of shapes - sheath and chic, angular sleeves, some belted, others floor-length and red-carpet ready - in a palette ranging from neon fuschias to aqua greens and a more muted palette of soft greys. Sophisticated separates showed up as blouses (we loved the buttoned-up, structured feel), a particularly chic paneled midi skirt and embellished pants.

The Mimi Plange Spring 2012 woman is evidently confident and self-assured, and while we don't have a strong sense of a Mimi Plange signature style, there's every sense that she's versatile, a strong talent and knows a thing or two about putting on a cohesive, memorable show.

Image: The House of Fabulous

Image: The House of Fabulous

Image: Chalya Shagaya

Image: Chalya Shagaya

Image: Chalya Shagaya

Image: Chalya Shagaya