Africa Fashion Week 2011: Day - 1 Alexander Koutny [South Africa/NY]

Much has been made of cross-border appeal in our increasingly global village - fashion beyond borders, if you like - and its insatiable appetite for newness. While it may yet be a distant and daunting dream for many out-of-Africa designers battling constraints from funding to infrastructure, Johannesburg-born and Central Saint Martins MA graduate Alexander Koutny is already fluent in international speak. His home-coming collection brought with it a dark turn - a detour of sorts from his recent flirtations with print, but it also hearkened back to earlier collections when black was his base.

Obvious heaviness aside - wool, tights, leather, heavy coats and layering, however gorgeous, don't exactly scream Spring however you cut it - but, incidentally, it's the strong finger on cut, technique and detail we are most curious about here. Seen from a sculpted origami jacket with strong angular shapes (the statement jacket to end all statement jackets, save for a Viktor and Rolf creation) to a layer of mesh peeking from a boxy, asymmetric layer, mesh skin tight leggings paired with a silk blouse and hair extensions playing the role of embroidery; it's an artful tug-of-war between dark and light from which neither ultimately prevails because they are so beautifully combined. Many pieces started as simple crew necks, from which they became an angular cocoon dress in one case and an asymmetric piece with padded sleeves in another.

For a designer who left South Africa to escape 'commercialism', his attention to detail is hardly surprising and bears the traces of an aesthetic fine-tuned and understood over time - this level of effortlessness doesn't just happen. Sadly, the fine art of approachable construction that distinguishes Koutny isn't obvious in these one-dimensional photos; this strikes us as the sort of collection you meet one-on-one and deconstruct, layer by layer. In the absence of that, however, Koutny has evidently returned to South Africa fully formed with a strong point of view and his own self-assured take on international chic. We await his future projects somewhat impatiently, while we hope for a forecast of more lightness and less wool next summer.

- SLiq

Photos courtesy of SDR Photos

Africa Fashion Week 2011: Day - 1 Marianne Fassler [Street Juju]

Marianne Fassler is bound by an underlying commitment to showcasing and promoting Africa, and is something of a local legend in South Africa where she has consistently offered a divergent point of view for over two decades. In a budding industry where 'African Fashion' has undergone many makeovers and shorned strict definitions, Marianne Fassler, in her words, 'understands the strength of contemporary South Africa with its mixed cultures and mixed messages and her work exudes an exuberant Africanism that never descends into cliche'. This intimate understanding is reflected in the spirit of her Street Juju collection at Africa Fashion Week - a streak of irreverent, timeless spunk (reminiscent of Vivienne Westwood), with street charm and distinctly African sensibilities.

From markings echoing a long heritage of scarification, to ombre and bright polka dot jersey dresses, and wax print mixed with leopard, a varied pot of print was offered in Marianne's signature way - shredded, criss-crossed with tulle, deconstructed and re-combined. Usually soft and romantic tulle and lace brought additional edge in the form of ruffled, free layered skirts, taking a cue from patterned bodices - a carefree, unscripted celebration of independence. For all the fun dresses and separates - one look combined polka dots with a multi-coloured underlay and a gorgeous lace bodice - there was also room for some grown-up seriousness. A dark tie-dye dress (seen on the timeless Ajuma) suitable for red carpet sass, a black leather dress straight from the set of the Matrix, and a silk floor-length leopard print stunner easily come to mind.

Clearly, Marianne is a master of craft, and while not every single look struck a cord, the diversity of her offerings - from the practical jerseys to the fantastical tulles, all joyful and unrestrained -, the homage to the colour and verve of street style, and the nods to Africa point to why she's an enduring talent, firmly in a league of her own.

- SLiq

Photos: SDR Photos

Africa Fashion Week 2011: KLuK CGDT [The African Cinderella]

[Image courtesy of JenaDova]

You may be forgiven for being a little breathless after seeing KLuK CGDT's unprecedented production - one Twitter fan was confessed to being positively weepy (@StyleGuideCT), another said 'I do believe in love - but I'd rather wear Kluk or CGDT' (@IsobelStellar). Superlative, gushy, emotional - call their cult-like profession of admiration what you want; it's all too easily justified. From the sheer breadth of it (we counted about 60 looks), to the alarmingly - yes, alarmingly - brilliant depth of it (everything from embroidered lace to belted paper bag shorts found a place), KLuK CGDT put on a delightfully crammed show that has earned them one of the few prime spots in our hearts.

Lace (African and French) and lightness set the tone for fantastically crafted dresses combining sheer net with embroidered lace cutouts. When lace wasn't acting as an embellishment on the hems and bodices of many-a-dress, it was standing alone as high-waisted ivory trousers and a glamorous buttoned-up blouse - a welcome re-invention of a textile usually reserved for traditional use. A sheer mood pervaded several pieces - sometimes as tunic-like tulle overlays on simple slips, as see-through poet sleeves, and even as a zig-zag motif running through two floor-length frocks. A mostly muted palette of lilac and off-white allowed the craftsmanship to shine through, but a brilliant burst of yellow and print were welcome intrusions in this compelling ode to romance, Africa-style. For all the pieces on display, an interconnectedness held them together where a less seasoned hand may have offered schizophrenia - a well-deserved nod especially in that regard.

From the evening frocks to the day dresses and the ultra chic separated held together by bows and ribbon, KLuK CGDT is clearly gunning for relevance in virtually every aspect of our summer wardrobes, from cocktail parties, to all-night soirees, and afternoon ladies-who-brunch meetings. A collaboration with Cape Cobra on exquisite high-end leather accessories could point to the makings of a KLuK CGDT lifestyle experience. No easy feat to be relevant in many different ways, but perhaps undaunting for a brand that's strong across the board, from ready-to-wear, to bridal, and couture. An extraordinary accomplishment and a pointer to the boundless possibilities Africa holds, and a timely reminder that brilliance abounds in every corner of the continent in ways one cannot always predict. 

- SLiq

Photos: SDR Photos

Africa Fashion Week 2011: Why We're Giddy!

A string of Africa-themed fashion shows have saturated 2011, and now the train moves to one of the most recognized and consistent platforms - Africa Fashion Week, Johannesburg. While Nigeria (Lagos in particular) is hot on South Africa's heels vying for the title of fashion capital, South Africa clearly has a significant early lead. As Helen Jennings, editor of Arise Magazine put it in a recent iFashion interview, 'South Africa is at the forefront of African Fashion - it has the most developed industry, media and market on the continent without a doubt'. With the facts out of the way, here's what most excites us about this year's edition:

i) How to Campaign: Seen above and below, the images that define this year's Africa Fashion Week campaigns are by far the most exciting we've seen. Africa Fashion Week has clearly come of age as the premier fashion gathering on the continent. Beyond the images, however, the flow of information from African Fashion International (AFI, the producers of Africa Fashion Week) has been constant and timely, especially on platforms like Facebook and Twitter. Communication is the heart and soul of any brand, and AFI gets top marks for their effort.

ii) The Revolution Will be Televized: Or at least live-streamed. With the rise in instant gratification provided by live streams on sites such as nowfashion.com and everything from live tweets to instagram adding to the fashion frenzy, more efforts are being made to connect the rest of the world in real-time. This year, Africa Fashion Week takes the bold step of streaming shows live, taking a cue from Capetown Fashion Week's efforts earlier in the year. In addition, photos will be made online almost immediately after the shows as has been the norm. A mighty good start, if you ask us. Watch with us here.

iii) Wide Spread: This is perhaps the most excited we've ever been, and may it may have a thing to do with the diversity of the line-up - Gloria Wavamunno for Uganda, Alexander Koutny for the South African diaspora, Madam Wokie for Sierra Leone, etc. While it's always good to see familiar and established names, the focus on young, varied talent is especially thrilling this year - the Maki Ohs of this world have shown remarkable promise and will certainly define and direct the creative explosion in, around, and beyond the continent. Read the designers' profiles here.

iv) Trade before Aid: Much ado has been made about trade within and with Africa, and the 'business of fashion' is finally being thrown up as a serious possibility. Fashion shows are good, but what's a spectacular show without a guaranteed stream of sales and revenue for our fashion entrepreneurs? If we want more folks to 'Buy African', more stores need to 'Stock African' offline and online. As part of Africa Fashion Week, the inaugural Africa Fashion Trade Expo will take place on October 20, 2011, and highlights will include the AFI Fashion Business Seminar, where panelists like Ozwald Boateng  (yes, in the flesh!) and  Bunmi Koko's Francis Udom will shed some light on their experiences. 

First Look: Albertus Swanepoel for Target

A new day, a new Target collaboration! Coming this October: 14 hats in collaboration with legendary South African milliner, Albertus Swanepoel, who has worked with everyone from Diane von Furstenberg, to Proenza Schouler, to J.Crew, and Suno NY [see his portfolio here], and who also won a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award in 2008. According to Target:

The Albertus Swanepoel for Target collection includes 14 colorful and stylish hats for women that feature a blend of vintage appeal mixed with unexpected details such as feathers and ribbon. The pieces are each priced at $19.99 and will be available Oct. 30 through Dec. 22, 2011 at all Target stores and Target.com. The collection includes fedoras, cloches and floppies in solid felt, printed felt and faux fur.

Pretty exciting news, no? See all fourteen exquisitely handmade pieces here. 

Eager to own any of them in particular? A certain 'Coming to America' one is begging for space in our closets...

[Mr. Swanepoel and Coco Rocha, courtesy of New York Social Diary]

Shop Albert Swanepoel's full-priced range for Barneys here, keep an eye out for his debut on Net-a-Porter here, and watch him work here!

For more information: www.albertusswanepoel.com

- SLiq

What's In A brand? The Black Coffee Example.

[Black Coffee at South Africa Fashion Week, September 2011]

Fashion needn't always be straight forward or clear-cut, or at least that seems to be what South Africa's Black Coffee offers season in, season out. Installations over runway shows. Origami petals for spring. And most recently, a fashion presentation called Synthesis, complete with dimmed lights, music, and choreography. While we weren't physically there, videos and photos (see below) easily transport and set us thinking about the intersection of fashion and art, and the myriad ways a collection can be presented. From viral fashion films (like The Row's and Jewel by Lisa's), 3D videos (Norma Kamali's at NYFW) to intimate presentations (Mr. Olowu and Maki Oh come to mind), to full-blown runway shows, plot-filled look books and even as fashion performances, there are several ways to go about making a lasting impression. Runway is all the rage at the moment for many out-of-Africa fashion shows, but we look forward to a little envelope pushing in the days ahead. Creative entrepreneurs/designers: what is the best way to present (or project) your work?

See more photos here, and watch videos here and here.

- SLiq

Photos with many thanks to Christo Doherty

SAFW Winter 2012 - Suzaan Heyns RTW Runway Review [True Colours]

 This seasonal collection is conceptualised around showing our true colours, or the internal and external perceptions of the individual. 

Leave it to Suzaan Heyns to inject a dose of drama into otherwise mostly lukewarm South Africa Fashion Week (SAFW) proceedings. Granted, drama is firmly ingrained in the brand's DNA, so that's hardly breaking news - standard silhouettes or minimal, straight lines and Suzaan Heyns seldom (if ever) mix, and there always seems to be an overreaching mood of something dark and exploratory. Last winter was for turning the human anatomy on its head; next winter's uses the age-old tug-of-war between who we are and how we present ourselves as its context.

Fish scale paillettes were offered in leather, suggesting an armour-like take on clothing - an update of sorts on chain-mail, if you like. Other paillettes were done in metallics, softening a palette of blacks, ash greys, purples and midnight blues. Some pieces offered an interesting mix of colours - slivers of purple on a draped black blouse, slivers of black on a purple dress (I see your true colours shining through?). Nudes offered a compelling contrast as draped, sometimes slouchy outerwear, while separates kept the mood fluctuating between draped and a dose of bold - a pair of loose pants was paired with metallic fish scales and a draped cardigan, and a chiffon dress was embellished with scales from the spine to the hem - a beautiful merger of moods.

Layering was an important component in a collection that ranged from a mini dress with layered scales to a stunning camel (wool) dress with disproportionate sleeves and a floor length skirt shown alongside floor length coats - think layers of shrug jackets and tanks paired with skirts and jodphurs, or a dress that combined a satin finish, mesh, and scales. For accessories, Suzaan Heyns introduced mesh scarves, swim caps and shoes revamped with scales, metallic belts, and patchwork leather bags from an ongoing collaboration with Leather Rose.

In all, we went away thoroughly excited by Suzaan Heyns' new take on adventure, and were particularly impressed that the balance of edge and wearable found an amicable meeting point in this collection - a sleek finish indeed.

SAFW - Suzaan Heyns shot for Ifashion by Joanna Imrie from Post - joannaimrie on Vimeo.

- SLiq

Photos: SDR Photo

Good Ideas: WOZA (Wear Only South African)

[Screen capture from wearonlyza.com]

The What

In the future, everyone will buy and wear African. Or so it seems, with movements like WOZA (Wear Only South African) turning the spotlight to local made in South Africa brands and the people who wear them. Think of it as a look book that celebrates South Africa's fashion scene and gives you front row seats to who's wearing what. 

Kickstarted by the Capetown Fashion Council, WOZA exists to "raise awareness and increase the profile and desire for South African designed and produced fashion", and to "stimulate a local demand for buying local clothing". Tapping into the model used by popular sites like lookbook.nu, WOZA is a visual boost for South Africa's blooming industry and the face of the movement to put South African Fashion, well, in your face.

WOZA is a natural evolution from movements such as the Buy Nigerian and Wear South African Fridays campaigns, and a more permanent showcase of all who've already bought into the 'buy local' message (and bait for those who've remained on the sidelines). The long and short of it? If so and so is buying South African, so can you.

[Screen capture from wearonlyza.com]

The How

The step-by-step of WOZA is very straight forward - take a photo, upload, save. Included in those steps are spaces for "The name of the South African Designer you are wearing" and "Where you bought them". There's also a crowd participation component built in via the pink VOTE button on each photo. The more votes you get, the more you stand a chance of being featured in the "Who's Got It Made" section. WOZA is also taking it to the streets, camera in hand, to turn the focus on everyday people going about their business wearing South African.  

The Perks

While the photos don't necessarily specify where an item was purchased yet - and they should -, a list of participating designers and participating stores is available. Perks could include special promotions and discounts, such as the ongoing 20% off at Mememe boutique (owned by blogger Milisuthando Bongela of Wear South African Fridays fame and designer Doreen Southwood). "Hot items" are also showcased in rotation, giving designers space to present their creations.

SLiq Thinks

While pop-stores and "major retail partnerships" are in the works, WOZA as it exists today represents one of the most powerful tools for discovering and supporting local talent, and to have the Capetown Fashion Council throw its weight behind this movement is a clear indication that individual buying patterns can have a powerful effect on an industry and the livelihoods it represents. The future of "Buying African" is in fact not in some distant faraway place, it's already here.

Support WOZA here today.

- SLiq

Quotes from WOZA Press Release here.

SLiq's Good Ideas showcases concepts that present Africans in fashion at their best. If it's good, we'll talk about it.

SAFW S/S 2011 DAY 3: Clive Rundle

Trust Clive Rundle to inject a dose of drama into the SAFW proceedings. For a brand that once dubbed a collection 'Marie Antoinette returns to Paris after attending a lesbian wedding in Africa', one has come to expect a certain cheeky quirkiness. With this collection, there's the occasional "Who would wear that, and where to exactly?" feeling with a number of pieces, but there's also a surprising amount that's wearable, fun and different. If you're looking for cookie-cutter fashion, Clive Rundle probably isn't your man, but if you're after a conversation starter, you've come to the right place. We're big fans of his treatment of the sheer trend, and the black pleated dress with embroidered yellow flowers was a unanimous favourite. Anything stand out for you? Are you a Clive Rundle kind of girl?

- SLiq

Photos c/o Simon Deiner for SDR Photos

Look Book: Christopher Strong ["I See Through You"]

 Christopher Strong is a Capetown-based womenswear label founded by Elaine du Plessis and Michael Owen.

BLACK IS ALWAYS THE NEW BLACK - Elain du Plessis

We have a deep, abiding love for minimalism - that no-frills attached, understated good-to-go mood that always seems so disconnected from the fray; that Alexander Wang meets Stella McCartney vibe; those back-to-basics pieces expertly executed in black, white, grey and beige; those much-needed and much-loved building blocks.

Christopher Strong's collection "I See Through You" reminds us why we always begin with - and return to - minimalism. Give us a simple collared white shirt, skinny pants, a partially see-through LBD, a tuxedo blazer, jersey, chiffon, silk -- or just go ahead and give us every piece from "I See Through You" -- and leave the rest to us.

It has been a long, long while since a collection has mirrored our mood so perfectly. We can't even tell you how in love we are.

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