SHOP LIQUORICE: south africa fashion week winter 2012

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

SAFW Winter 2012 - Tiaan Nagel RTW Runway Review

[Screen captures by Shop Liquorice]

Tiaan Nagel's SAFW collection is a timely reminder that little, well-placed details can mean much, and can amplify an already strong collection - and make it better. With exaggerated, strong shoulders taking centre stage, Tiaan could have stayed at the level of shape alone, but instead infuses pieces with pockets of creative detours - organza sleeves here, square flap there, cutout vents everywhere.

Colour was kept to a bare minimum, with only the faintest hint of blush pink and a green asymmetric dress seeping through bold monochromes. The real joy came from looking at several of the pieces from behind - we spotted organza panels, exposed zippers, unexpected clever cutouts, floaty capes on otherwise smart shirts - making for a fascinating take on duality. Organza added an element of sheerness; one look had a sheer organza hem, another had organza sleeves, while voluminous LBDs had layers of organza and fringing acting almost like feathers and wings flapping care-freely - truly a stunning visual treat.

Whether it was dressed up shorts, cropped pants, dresses or statement coats, Tiaan Nagel offered a heart-warmingy memorable collection that thrived on pushing form a little further into the realms of function and fun.

SAFW - Tiaan Nagel - Shot for Ifashion by Joanna Imrie from POST from Post - joannaimrie on Vimeo.

- SLiq

Photos: SDR Photo

SAFW Winter 2012 - Suzaan Heyns RTW Runway Review [True Colours]

This seasonal collection is conceptualised around showing our true colours, or the internal and external perceptions of the individual.

Leave it to Suzaan Heyns to inject a dose of drama into otherwise mostly lukewarm South Africa Fashion Week (SAFW) proceedings. Granted, drama is firmly ingrained in the brand's DNA, so that's hardly breaking news - standard silhouettes or minimal, straight lines and Suzaan Heyns seldom (if ever) mix, and there always seems to be an overreaching mood of something dark and exploratory. Last winter was for turning the human anatomy on its head; next winter's uses the age-old tug-of-war between who we are and how we present ourselves as its context.

Fish scale paillettes were offered in leather, suggesting an armour-like take on clothing - an update of sorts on chain-mail, if you like. Other paillettes were done in metallics, softening a palette of blacks, ash greys, purples and midnight blues. Some pieces offered an interesting mix of colours - slivers of purple on a draped black blouse, slivers of black on a purple dress (I see your true colours shining through?). Nudes offered a compelling contrast as draped, sometimes slouchy outerwear, while separates kept the mood fluctuating between draped and a dose of bold - a pair of loose pants was paired with metallic fish scales and a draped cardigan, and a chiffon dress was embellished with scales from the spine to the hem - a beautiful merger of moods.

Layering was an important component in a collection that ranged from a mini dress with layered scales to a stunning camel (wool) dress with disproportionate sleeves and a floor length skirt shown alongside floor length coats - think layers of shrug jackets and tanks paired with skirts and jodphurs, or a dress that combined a satin finish, mesh, and scales. For accessories, Suzaan Heyns introduced mesh scarves, swim caps and shoes revamped with scales, metallic belts, and patchwork leather bags from an ongoing collaboration with Leather Rose.

In all, we went away thoroughly excited by Suzaan Heyns' new take on adventure, and were particularly impressed that the balance of edge and wearable found an amicable meeting point in this collection - a sleek finish indeed.